May 13, 2016

Jarret at Seoul Spring 2016 collection , by Alexandra Burtiu


Jarret is a label established by Lee Ji Yeon in 2009 in South Korea, which now has opened a store in New York. The designer creates garments based on the relationship between women and men, that`s why she gets inspired by menswear and always has both genders in every collection that she creates. This label is focused on creating garments for on-duty and off-duty wear at the same time. It can be said that Lee Ji Yeon is creating garments that, even if are inspired from menswear, are mostly for women who want to express their femininity wherever they go.
The collection that was presented at Seoul Fashion Week, spring/summer 2016, was inspired by the Snow White story. The make-up evoked the description of Snow White: lips red as blood, hair black as ebony, and the white skin that the model had, exactly as the character from the story. The colors that dominated were pure white, black, intense red and a little dark blue for evoking masculinity. There are no accessories and the shoes are flat, a common thing used in the fashion from that side of the world. The patterns and the prints that were used were actually abstract drawings of apples and letters of the apple word, English and Korean version (sagwa). And if the apples or the prints aren`t there, it will be the color red to remind you that it is about apples.


             The predominant material that was used was veil, but there were cotton and silk as well. The see-trough material was in a clear contrast with the others materials, especially with the silk which is shinny, and always used in the collection made by Asian designers. The veil is considered by the majority of people to be a material which evokes femininity, but for Ji Yeon it is not like that. She uses this material for menswear as well, a thing that, in my opinion, is refreshing. Why shouldn`t a man wear veil? Because it is not manly? But what does make a man manly? This collection gives us the answer: the attitude and the physique, nothing else.
             Even if Ji Yeon gets inspired by the Snow White story for this collection, how she tells the story is a bit odd. I saw the collection before I knew the inspiration source of it, and for me it was about Adam and Eve story. But if you compare the two stories they are quite similar. The woman who eats an apple, which she shouldn`t, and gets “poisoned” and almost “died”. And there was the man by her side when she made a mistake. And like in the stories, even if the collection is about men too, the women's presence  dominates the scene. She is the one that you, as a viewer, see more.  And the fact that there is a clear contrast between black and white, colors that in Asian belief are the colors for the Yin and Yang concept, colors that reflect the good and the bad of the world, is a sign that this collection is not just about a story that originally wasn`t written for kids, it is about something more. And the presence of the color red can be a reminder of the blood as a penitence for what the woman did, not just a reminder for the red apples from Snow White, apples that can be green and yellow as well.


             But after all, who actually knows what is inside of an artist mind?

            

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